Summer in Prague is a riot for the senses with music, art, theatre and of course wine and food. I have had the pleasure of tasting on several tasting panels namely Vinař Roku – which picks the Winemaker of the Year 2013, Vinorevue and then also Vinum Gradecense in Hradec Kralové.
The eight finalists for Vinař Roku were Milan Sůkal New Poddvorov, Mikrosvín Mikulov, Proqin Great Němčice, Josef Valihrach Krumvíř, New Winery Drnholec, Znovín Znojmo, Mikulov Tanzberg and Winery Volařík Mikulov.The new holder of the trophy for Macro Vinaře 2013 is Winery Valhirach with Winery Proqin and Mikros wine Mikulov as runners up.
The best collection of five samples is evaluated for the final. All finalists being selected then choose a sixth wine, which is added to the final collection. These wines are then tasted by the international jury consisting of four Masters of Wine, one Cape Wine Master and four excellent local wine tasters. Results were announced at a big gala at Žofín in Prague.
For Vinorevue I tasted some Champagnes with my top scores going to Charles Gardet from Ay, Francois Bedel and Brut Saphir Louis Barthé NV. I really liked the Tribaut Brut Nature with its clean fresh taste. Overall the quality if the entries were very good in this flight. Scores of 90 and more give a wine the distinction of a Prague Premium Gold.
The four Chenin Blancs from South Africa were not representative of the best the country can do and the entry of a rather tired 2007 did not do the variety any justice. We hope this category will grow.
We tasted 48 Cabernet Sauvignons from all over the world and my top scores were all at 92 points for Vina Errazuruz Max Reserva 2010 from Chile, Xanadu Next of Kin 2008 from Victoria Australia – which I called a modern classic and then Vina Carmen Winemakers Reserve Bon Vivant 2007, Maipo Valley, Chile. Other wines I liked were Mas Daumas Gassac 2011 from France, Villa Mount Eden 2007, California and Francis Ford Coppula Directors 2010 , California. Gerard Bertrand Cigalus Rouge 2009, IGP Pays Herault, Lanquedoc and Bisquertt Family Vineyards 2009, Colchagua, Chile.
The Shiraz flight of 37 wines had some stunners amongst them but I was disappointed with the South African entries which except for the Rijks did not show well. My best wine scored 94 for the Errazuriz Max Reserva 2009 which was stellar and in descending order Vylyan Villanyi 2009 from Hungary, Salomon Shiraz & Co. BAAN 2010, South Australia, Vina Carmen Reserva 2009, Mt. Langhi Ghiran 2009, Australia, Cote-Rotie GAEC Francois et Fils 2011 and finally Markus Schneider 2008, Phalz Germany which all scored 89 and above.
Last but not least was a flight of 25 Nebbiolo’s from the north of Italy. I had one score of 79 and the rest were an absolute joy to behold with my highest score a 93 for the Renato Ratti Marcenasco 2007. The wine had all the attributes of great Barolo with the seductive perfume of violet and roses underpinned with the savoury, tarry undertones of fennel, liquorice and spice. Paruso Bussia scored 91 and other top scores went to Paruso Langhe 2008, Pora Reserva 2007, Mauro Molino Gallinoto 2009, Rivetta Barolo del Commune Serra Lunga d’Alba 2009, Sigidun Sassa 2007 and Rivetto Leon Riserva 2006.
Vinum Gradecense in Hradec Kralové was a smoothly run event and I chaired a very professional panel of 4 Czech tasters, Aleš Sokolík, Parla Burcšova, Martin Smíd and Sarka Hůrkova. We tasted classic method sparkling and champagne as well as the international white wine entries.
It is held under the auspices of the Mayor of the city of Hradec Králové and was held at the Congress Hall Hotel Černigov for the 7th time under the direction of Mr. George Čábelka, President of the Guild of Czech winemakers.
My best wine was the Stoneburn Sauvignon Blanc 2012 from Hunters Estate in new Zealand. The Zamecké Vinařstí Bzenec Chardonnay 2011, Proqin Vinařství Rulanské Modré (Pinot Noir) 2011 – the Kassimex SRO “Sole” Chardonnay 2012 from Romania, was a real surprise to me – all performed very well. The ”Sole” is the pinnicle of white wines from Cramele Recas, a large winery in the Banat region of Romania. The Chardonnay is hand picked from the best single vineyard sites and made in local Barriques from Transylvania. The packaging is restrained yet elegant. Vinařství Josef Dufek’s Chardonnay and Janoušek winery’s delicious Riesling 2011 made the top 10 as well as the Bernard Remy Grand Cru Champagne, which I placed 2nd in our final tasting of the top 10.
Tastings such as these make one appreciate the dedication and passion that goes into wines the world over and it is always a joy to discover something utterly delectable in a line-up. Sadly the single most encountered cause of problem wines in these competitions is winery hygiene. I am not referring here to wine cork problems which still sadly plagues even the best of wines. One accepts the big influence vintage has on wine quality in many regions but taking meticulous care of cleanliness in the cellar and during bottling, is a quality requirement which is not negotiable and should not be the cause why wines fail to reach their full potential.
elsiepells 