Mountain Reflection
With the popular success of rosé wines in markets around the world, many local producers have added pink wines to their portfolios and despite the frivolous image of the category, real grown-up wines with a sense of identity are emerging. Serious wines but never to be taken too seriously.
Farm Dam at Dusk
Europe has understood the value of rose for years – especially in Provence – where the pale, dry and subtly herby wines compliment the local dishes to perfection. In the early 70’s California took the new world’s first significant step into the pink when they released white zinfandel which became a run-away success.
Pinks are losing their seasonality and are now enjoyed year round. Our local offering has increased from around 40 in the early eighties to almost 400 currently – if one adds Blanc de Noir – testament to its popularity.
Although white varieties with a smidgen of red can make delicious rose, reds are more often used, sometimes with a splash of aromatic white added to lift the spirits. Two production methods are mainly used. Firstly the juice is macerated with crushed, dark grapes for 30 minutes up to 24 hours to obtain the desired hue. The must is drawn off and treated as a white wine. This method allows the winemaker to make picking decisions specifically for rose. Colour can range from pale salmon to iridescent pink and although there is no ‘’incorrect’’ colour, deeper colour is often perceived by consumers as sweeter than lightly tinged wines, which is not necessarily true.
The saignée technique, or bleeding the juice off fermenting red grape must, results in intensified colour and flavour as well as lower alcohol potential in the remaining must. Less used techniques are the mixing of red and white wine or removing colour with charcoal from red wine. Irrespective of technique or style, perfect pink pleasure remains the purpose!
Pouring a glass of Rosé
Pulpit Rock Brink Family Pinotage Rosé 2012
The top honours in the tasting goes to the Pulpit Rock Brink Family Pinotage Rosé 2012 with a 4,5 star rating. The entire Brink family is involved at this low-key Riebeeck Valley winery and they have quietly been getting on with quality since their first harvest in 2004. Pinotage has proven to be a star. They have received Pinotage Top Ten nominations in 2006 and again in 2007. This delicately pink winner once more displays the fruit quality of their Pinotage, which shines through without the cosmetic assistance of oak or sweetness.
It is a multi-layered mouthful with succulent red berry fruit and savoury rooibos tea underpinned with deeper tones of herby minerality and a succulent finish.
The vineyards of Pulpit Rock nestles along the foothills of the Kasteelberg Mountain with the landmark rock formation of similar name towering above. The dream of making their own wine started with Grandpa Brink in 1918 and eventually came to fruition when the younger generation Haumann and Van der Byl finished their education at Stellenbosch with a Diploma in Cellar Technology from Elsenburg and a B.Comm degree respectively. The family’s five decades of farming in the Swartland gave them in-depth knowledge of the terroir and potential of the land. Vineyards were established on two farms, namely De Gift, where the winery is situated, and Panorama with mainly red varieties planted. Pinotage tops the list with 90 hectares while Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay shine the light for whites with 110 and 50 hectares respectively.
A specific block of Pinotage, planted on granite-based Hutton soil, has been identified for the rose. The terroir contributes minerality and tight structure to the grapes. The North-East aspect can be hot but canopies are carefully managed to prevent sunburn and drip irrigation delivers moisture directly where it is needed. Drought has plagued the Swartland for a few vintages and the 2012 was again marked by very little rain, but the farm is blessed with good water supply enabling stress free vines.
The state of the art cellar with a 3000 ton capacity receives the harvest but traditional techniques are respected and used in combination with the latest technology. Before picking, grapes are tasted regularly for flavour development and the Pinotage for the rosé is hand-picked at 23 degrees Balling in the cool of the day to retain freshness. About 30 minutes of skin contact is allowed. The wine is fermented cool at 13 – 14 degrees Celsius with a yeast traditionally used for Chenin Blanc. When fermentation is completed, it is promptly taken off the lees and then left on Chenin Blanc lees for two months, which rounds the edges and adds complexity.
The 2012 vintage was cellar master, Riaan van der Spuy’s first vintage on the farm. He gained experience in several countries and made wine in Uruguay for the last 6 years. In conversation it is clear to see that wine making is not only a job but a passion. Each batch of grapes arriving in the cellar is treated on its own merits and he likes to let the aroma, colour and taste determine the path to the best possible wine in the bottle. Judging by the delicious results, he clearly listens well.
Amani Poppy Blush Rosé 2011
Amani means ‘peace’ in in Swahili but that belies all the activity on this boutique farm. Lynde and Rusty Myers have owned the 38 hectare farm since 1997 and their holistic approach to nature and production as well as an ongoing quest for higher quality has built their reputation. The farm is situated on the slope of the tallest hills West of Stellenbosch. Polkadraai Hills not only afford breathtaking views but the vineyards also catch the beneficial cooling ocean breezes off False Bay and the Atlantic to the West.
A strong team supports Carmen Stevens who has been cellar master at Amani since 2005. Her skill and dedication is well respected in the industry. She believes it is important to experiment and evolve as winemaker and her wines have drawn well-deserved attention and awards internationally and on home ground.
Much attention is lavished on the vineyards which are planted on sandstone based soils with vineyard practices moving ever closer to organic and biodynamic principles. Crop levels are closely monitored and excess grapes removed early to encourage better flavour intensity. Leaf moisture potential is measured to ensure the correct watering regime. To keep the crops safe from marauding birds a clever bird scaring device, called the Eagle Eye, does exactly that without harm to the birds but safeguards ripening grapes with a reflective rotating pyramid. When harvest approaches aerial infra-red photography is used to determine vigour levels in each block. Every block is then harvested three times at different levels. These are kept separate throughout fermentation and early maturation.
For the attention grabbing rose, Shiraz grapes are hand-picked at 25 degrees Balling. The free-run juice is obtained by the saignée method, leaving the juice in contact with skins for no more than an hour. The must is inoculated and fermentation temperature kept below 15 degrees Celsius to ensure retention of fruit flavours. Every year the rose is a perfect vinous picture of the vintage. Fermentation is left to finish naturally and the wine then sterile filtered. The result might end up with a lower alcohol and higher sugar or vice versa than in previous years as no adjustments are made. A dash of Viognier adds panache and subtle fragrance and is blended in at the final stage. A vibrant cranberry pink, the wine is unctuous with underlying lime and fennel creating balance. The name refers to the red poppies planted between the vines every second year in rememberance of the owners late son, Forest Myers.
Bush Vine Vinezard in the Swartland
Darling Cellars Classic Range Merlot Rosé 2012
Darling Cellars has long been recognized as an excellent source of quality wines at affordable prices and their philosophy is well expressed by cellar master Abe Beukes when he says, “What nature gives us each year, we try and get into the bottle with passion and honour.” He has led the team for many years but is now stepping into the role as consultant with globe trotter, Alastair Rimmer, taking over as cellar master from 2013. His tenure has put the focus on the expression of terroir, bright fruit and impeccable quality. The four star Merlot Rose from their Classic range is testament to that vision with its lively pomegranate colour and bright summer-berry flavours, delivering crisp, refreshing drinking pleasure.
Although Darling lies within the Swartland, the demarcation of Wine of Origin Darling in 2003 recognised the unique terroir of the area. The low lying hills face North East and South West with some vineyards no more than six kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean. The cold Benguela current flows along the West Coast, influencing temperatures downwards up to 5 degrees Celsius compared to inland areas with night time temperatures significantly lower those in the day. This slows ripening and preserves acidity and fruit.
The dry land vineyards are planted with gnarled bush vines up to fifty years old. With their penetrating root systems, bush vines can reach deeply buried nutrients and are able to successfully withstand the often harsh summer conditions in the area. They are also able to regulate their crop according to available water supply and therefore deliver fruit with good concentration and natural balance. Crop levels are low, between 6 – 8 tons per hectare.
The Merlot was picked specifically for the rosé with the first grapes harvested at 21 degrees balling to retain crisp acidity and the second picking at 23 degrees to capture riper fruit flavours. Juice is macerated for 2 – 3 hours and racked from the skins. Fermentation is cool and slow, retaining maximum fruit flavours.
This is a wine for sipping on the beach at sunset with a loved one by your side.
Dieu Donné Rosé 2011
High above the village of Franschhoek lie Dieu Donné Vineyards, hugging the steep south-western slopes of the Franschhoek mountains. The name means “God Given” and standing at the winery enjoying the spectacular view, one feels indeed celestial. The farm was established in the early 80’s and changed hands in 1987 when French-Mauritian, Robert Maingard, bought it, feeling a connection to his French ancestry in the Valley. Realising the potential of this heavenly place, he immediately started an extensive replanting program which is now paying dividends with award winning wines. Central to the winery’s logo is the Croix de Lorraine – a double barred cross with origins in Constantinople and thereafter France– said to symbolize the spirit of non-conformity which also finds expression in the philosophy and wines made here.
Franschhoek Valley
The hand-picked team has worked together for some time with Hennie du Toit, who grew up on the farm, looking after the vineyards. Cellar master, Stephan du Toit, is one of only a few winemakers who also have the Cape Wine Master’s title. He has worked and travelled widely with experience gained at high profile wineries such as Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux and Simi Winery in California. His four star rose is a blend of mainly Chardonnay with Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot and has a joyful abundance of candied strawberries and fynbos with a good balance between the sweetness and acidity.
The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc vineyards used for the rose are trellised and planted very high- at 450 to 500 meters – on steep, south west facing slopes. The weathered granite with rocky topsoil, called Greywack, is only found in this corner of the valley and encourages naturally balanced vines with low vigour and crop levels. The elevation ensures slow, cool ripening which in turn preserves higher natural acidity in the grapes. No irrigation is used which further concentrate flavour and the imprint of terroir.
Grapes are harvested just ripe in the cool mornings, early in February, to ensuring freshness. The white components are kept away from oxidation by a blanket of CO2 and dry ice. The Merlot remains on the skins for no more than 24 hours and contributes colour and red berry succulence to the blend. Sipping this perfect pink somehow brings a sense of the invigorating mountain air, in which it was created, to wherever you are. Is that not one of the great joys of wine?
Jordan Chameleon Rosé 2012
With the experience of 20 vintages on the farm, husband-and-wife winemaking team, Gary and Kathy Jordan continue to rake in accolades and awards and 2012 in particular, was a spectacularly successful year. Their passion and focus is an inspiration to many and their initiatives such Kathy’s Women in Wine Initiative – a program to sponsor and mentor women in the Wine Industry – is much welcomed.
With Gary’s background in geology the vineyards have been developed in tune with their terroir. The 146 hectare Stellenbosch farm is uniquely situated, partly tucked high up into a valley, with aspects in all possible directions. Vineyards are planted between 160 and 410 meters above sea level with white varietals doing well on cooler south- and east facing slopes, and the reds on warmer north and west-facing slopes. The maritime influence of both Indian and Atlantic oceans help to moderate high summer temperatures. Canopies are managed with care to ensure balance between leaf cover and crop and water stress is managed with drip irrigation directly to the roots of the vine ensuring good flavour development. Gary explains that it is important for them to control every aspect of their winemaking from the soil to the bottle, ensuring that their wines have a definite sense of place and is recognisably Jordan. With their two restaurant ventures, Jardin’s on the farm and High Timber in London, they have successfully extended the Jordan experience to the most important end consumer.
A Rosé was first added to the portfolio in 2007 with the vision to produce a serious, dry wine with classic elegance and personality. Grapes are harvested specifically for the production of the rose and come from 10 year old Merlot and Shiraz vines. Vineyards are managed to encourage lower alcohol levels, good fruit concentration and excellent balance. Each variety is picked at the perfect moment for ripeness and flavour. The grapes are destemmed, crushed and given a couple of hours maceration in the press whereafter the normal process for white wine is followed. The result is a cherry pink 4 star stunner with elegant balance, filled with enough flavour and attitude to partner superbly with Asian food, duck dishes.
The Chameleon range of wines was inspired by the Cape Dwarf Chameleon, protected for many years on the farm. Their habitat is the indigenous vegetation around the vineyards. An African legend attributes magical powers to these little creatures. Sipping a glass of rose on the terrace at the restaurant, enjoying the panoramic view, one can believe it is true.
Solms-Delta Lekkerwijn Rosé 2011
Protea in the Vineyard
A name could seldom be as fitting as that of the rosé from Solms-Delta, because it is indeed a ‘lekker wyn’ or lovely wine. The name of the farm adjoining Delta is also Lekkerwijn and that has a historic origin in the early days of the Cape. The property was granted to Henri l’Ecrévent in 1690 and the locals were unable to get their tongues around his name. They solved the problem by calling him Arie Lekkerwijn. He was killed nine years later by the first owner of Delta who disappeared without trace after that.
Solms-Delta Lekkerwijn
Things are still done differently – although not violently – on this farm bought by Mark Solms in 2002. He was born South African but became a citizen of the world as professor of Neuropsycology and is currently professor in the same subject at Cape Town University as well as posts held in London and New York. When he returned to South Africa he had a dream of producing wine and convinced a friend, Richard Astor, to buy one of the neighbouring farms. He created the Wijn de Caab Trust which is sustained by a profit share in Solms-Delta and together they mortgaged the two farms to buy the third farm which is home to the workers and their families enabling them to play an active role in shaping a future to the benefit of all. Together the three farms form a 76 hectare estate which is managed jointly. Exciting initiatives such as the Rural Cape Music Project and the social history Museum on the farm contributes valuable research and development.
Before any planting took place comprehensive scientific appraisal of site-specific soil and climate data was collected on the farm. With the data and viticulturists confirming his instincts, mainly Rhone varieties were planted on the farm namely Shiraz, Mourvedré, Grenache and Viognier. Rosa Kruger is presently the viticulture consultant. This law professional turned viticulturist is working closely with the team at Solm-Delta to get the best grapes to the winery and is also studying the terroir of the farm closely to assess the appropriateness of the varieties under cultivation.
The Lekkerwijn Rosé is dry and oak matured for 12 months in seasoned French oak with the lees constantly stirred to enhance colour and body. The Mourvedré, Grenache and Viognier is melded into seemless sophistication by the skillful oak treatment, which adds no overt flavour, but lures you into a shimmering pink trap of deliciousness.
elsiepells 