Handsome Hungarians

Wines from Heimann Winery in Szekszárd in Hungary

On a recent trip to taste on a panel  for the Berliner Wein Trophy,  I visited the city for the first time and found it, vibrant, affordable and, amongst other things, home to some wonderful classical music.

I have long been a admirer of Hungarian wines and although my panel tasted wines from Portugal, Spain and others I was thrilled to have the opportunity to taste two delicious reds from the Szekszárd  wine growing region which, along with Villany and the Eger, produces  the best red wines in Hungary and lies about 2 hours south of Budapest.

View of mighty Danube flowing through Budapest

We tasted the Kadarka 2012 and Birtokbor 2011 from the Heimann Family Estate. This is one of the most highly regarded family wineries of Hungary making  a range of quality wines.  They receive accolades from international publications such as the 2014 Gault-Millau Guide for Hungary, which awarded them  4 bunches. The young Heimann poured these two red  wines with pride, showing off their potential to the international palates gathering  around the table

Kadarka Grapes

Kadarka is known to be a fussy variety but certainly worth the trouble. Although it is not the most planted grape, it is the flagship of the region which also grows the ‘Bordeaux varieties’ like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as well as Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir and Zweigelt.  Kadarka adds class and spice to the ‘Bull’s Blood of Szekszárd’ (Szekszárdi Bikavér) which is pivotal to this southern expression of the renowned  Bull’s Blood of Eger

2012 Heimann Kadarka Szekszárd, Hungary

Light purple/ruby glow;  the nose is brimming with wild berries, raspberry, violets, undergrowth and cedary spice, good concentration and substance despite its youth and light appearance; Lovely silky texture and well balanced acidity gives lift and freshness to the fruit – considering its youth the wine has tremendous character and presence and will certainly develop well for a few more years. An appealing style for those looking for refreshment and intrigue.

2011 Heimann “Birtokbor” Red Blend Szekszárd, Hungary

Deep garnet with an opaque centre; good depth with rich black cherry and minty dark chocolate tones, while well-handled oak supports the smooth tannins giving nice savoury backbone to the sweet fruitiness. The wine is mainly aged in large oak vats giving seamless integration. A characterful blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch in Hungarian) some Syrah.

Franz Liszt

The red wines from Szekszárd is said to have inspired famous musicians such as Schubert and Franz Liszt making the world a happier place. His famous quote below surely encompasses wine.

“Broad paths are open to every endeavour, and a sympathetic recognition is assured to every one who consecrates his art to the divine service of a conviction of a consciousness” Franz Liszt